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June 19

My friends Julie and Pierre in Melle, between Poitiers and Saintes.

I was on the street early in the evening of June 19, trying to make sense of my map when a young mom with baby carriage asked me "Vous êtes pèlerin, monsieur?"

I explained that I was a secular trekker. (The town is on one of the Chemins de St Jaques, pilgrimage routes to Compostelle), from Canada, and was trying to find the municipal campsite.

She asked if I would rather stay night at their house instead. So I did.

Julie and Pierre are ex-trekkers themselves. They rode from San Franisco to Buenes Aires in 2003. They've been grounded recently by the arrival of their baby, Paul